To write here about the Yuraygir Coast Walk I will refer back to my Instagram posts written fresh off the track with salt still in my hair and the roar of the ocean in my ears.
Day 1 Angourie to Broomes Head
We all want sunny days, not too hot or cold, shade for resting, a breeze to wick away the sweat but in Australia this is very rare.
It is usually stinking hot, raining or blowing a gale.
But without the inclement weather we can’t fully appreciate our awesome landscape.
I loitered around Angourie hoping for the weather to clear. Blue sky appeared just before lunch so i set out to walk as ar as possible before sunset.
The rain came back a few times and on the last beach, Grey Cliff camp to Brooms Head, a big greenish coloured storm helped me find extra energy to walk faster. Click link to watch little video 🙂
Everything was shut when i arrived so put up my hammock under a shelter.
A few times during the night i was woken by a little stray cat bumping my butt as it rubbed against the hammock.
This first section of the walk is relatively easy and relaxed with great views and few camping options before Brooms Head.
Timing your walk around low tides is important and makes the beach sections far more enjoyable.
The first 8-10kms passes through coastal heath and melaleuca swamp. Pack insect repellent because the moment you stop to drink, eat, read the info boards or take photos the mozzies swarm.
Day 2 Broomes Head to Wooli
Day 2 of the Yuraygir Coastal Walk was a big one for me.
Most walkers will plan this as a 4 day walk. Because i lost a day last week resting an injury i took advantage of the easy grade and completed 31kms from Brooms Head to Wooli.
The sunrise beach walk to Sandon was on the ebb tide and firm sand all the way to the river.
I stood for a while watching the surfers before having a look at the river crossing.
The national parks usually have an inflatable you row over but it was away for maintenance when i arrived.
As i stood deciding whether to sit and wait for people launching tinnies or start asking around camp i started talking to John and Jude from Bangalow. They have 2 pedal kayaks and offered to help me cross. John crossed with my pack on his, i took Jude’s over and John towed it back. It was great fun and my first time using a pedal kayak.
I decided to try walking around the Sth Sandon point but the halfmoon tides are never very low so i became very aware of how close the waves were as i climbed the rocks. When the nerves got the better of me i went back to the track. It was certainly worth a crack because the little rocky coves were stunning.
On the way to Minnie Waters i met a young family from Newcastle swimming in one of the natural shallows which form along the beach at lowtide. A little further down i found another one and had a swim.
It was an hot sunny day and the surf was still rough so it was a wonderful treat to cool down!
At Minnie Waters i met a couple of well travelled birdwatchers who fed me heaps of watermelon. So sweet and hydrating 🙂
I was stopping to chat too often and losing time. Leaving Minnie Waters the air was beginning to cool down but the beach remained firm almost all the way to the rock platforms.
Diggers Camp is a really nice place and each time i pass through i look forward to returning.
This time i didn’t stop and went straight over the headland to my final beach for the day.
The tide was supposed to be out but the beach was soft and scalloped. The deep gutter was throwing the waves up high and the scalloping was soft and steep. It was hard work.
The sun set just as i reached Wooli.
It was a good day!
Day 3 Wooli to Red Rock
On Monday i walked the final 12kms of the Yuraygir track from Wooli to Red Rock.
It is important to do this part at low tide as there are rocks to climb around before a rough goat track forms on top of the headland.
Bruce runs the local boat hire and can taxi walkers across the river from the town jetty.
I felt a bit nervous at times climbing around the rocks. The sea was still rough and loud and my imagination was having fun.
There were faint paths in the soft pebbly rubble between rocks where other walkers had passed in recent weeks. When i couldn’t see them i wondered if i had missed a detour and sometimes backtracked only to return and continue scrambling.
A few times i saw thin animal tracks uphill along the cliff edge but also saw human tracks in the next cove.
Eventually the rocks became too dangerous to do alone so i took the precarious goat track up. I wished a few times to be a goat instead of a clumsy human.
It was a relief to get to Pebbly Beach and chat with a few campers while the adrenaline drained away.
After Pebbly Beach and wading through Station Creek the beach became wide and firm all the way to the Red Rock river crossing. It felt so good!
Apparently you can wade through this crossing on a low low tide at the river mouth or further in through the mud but i watched a tree floating/rolling out the river to sea.
Nico is the boat taxi guy for Red Rock and does groups or individuals.
At Red Rock the Reflections Holiday Park discovered what i am doing and donated a tent site that night! I hammocked under a fig tree and had a lovely rest.
I haven’t forgotten Yamba. In fact, that post has already been written but there is a very good reason I’m waiting to publish it.